Marie Galante Rum

The island's three distilleries make rhum agricole, distilled from fresh sugar cane juice in the French agricole tradition, but with a muscular signature of its own: the classic blancs are bottled at 59 percent, and some cask-strength versions run higher still. The 59 percent is a tradition, not a legal requirement. That extra strength, paired with grassy, mineral cane character, is what collectors seek out. The island's sugar factory, Grande-Anse, also holds an export quota for molasses rum.

Three agricole distilleries work on Marie Galante: Bielle, Bellevue and Poisson, home of Pere Labat. Bielle is the island's best-known name, Poisson makes the elegant Pere Labat range, a friendlier entry into the island style, and Bellevue rounds out the trio with the largest export quota of the three. The aged Bielle and Pere Labat bottles are the accessible face of the island, while experienced drinkers chase the rare, powerful releases such as the Rhum Rhum Liberation Integrale and old vintage Bielle casks. Small island, three very distinct voices.

Drink the white high-proof agricoles in a Ti Punch, the Antillean ritual of cane juice rum, lime and a little sugar, and sip the aged versions neat at room temperature. In the Ti Punch the island's power and grassy bite shine, while aged Bielle and Pere Labat reward slow sipping. Because the strength runs high, a few drops of water open these rums up nicely. If you are new to agricole, start with an aged Pere Labat before the cask-strength bottles.